England/Scotland 2024 Pilgrimage – Day 4

September 4, 2024

What a glorious day!!! Yesterday’s rain and clouds had disappeared and the sun was shining when we left our guesthouse at 6:30am. After finding a public parking lot, figuring out the machine to pre-pay for 2+ days, and figuring out how to get to the ferry (which we could see but there was a fence between it and us,) we bought a “return ticket” (AKA “round trip”) to Iona! By 7:25, we were boarding the ferry with other walk-on passengers.

A Scottish Ferry Breakfast

Upon entering, a crew person showed us where we could store our luggage. That happened to be next to the cafeteria door, so we put our backpacks down at a window table and got in line for a “Traditional Scottish Breakfast” and coffee. We each could choose six items on the bar. Gregg was bolder than me, getting blood pudding and also Scottish sausage (which tasted like liversausage to me so I wished I had gotten it.

The ferry ride was about an hour and by the time we received our meal and ate it, it was time to prepare to disembark. Maybe we’ll explore the ship Friday, on our return.

Isle of Mull

We were now on the Isle of Mull and our next ferry was across the island. Since we couldn’t take our car (those tickets were sold out,) we caught a bus. This was about an hour ride. Boy, were we glad we were taking the bus instead of driving. The road is ONE LANE and TWO WAY. So there are “pull outs” along the way for one vehicle to move over to let the other pass. Or if you were in between pull outs, someone had to back up. Oh, joy.

The other nice thing about the bus is that there is commentary along the way. We learned that the Island of Mull is famous for it’s muscles. Shellfish, that is. I don’t think we’ll try them as we are “cautious” when it comes to seafood (out of deference to our tongues, not any health reasons.) But, hey, you never know.

Missed our Ferry

Our luggage was stored under the bus and the bus driver was busy figuring out everyone’s return (most of the folks on the bus were just day-trippers to Iona.) Once we received our luggage and walked to the ferry, it was pulling away. Thankfully, it runs back and forth every half hour. We took the opportunity to eat a scone. Why not?

Isle of Iona

The 15 minute ferry ride to Iona was lovely. We could see the old Abbey the whole trip since the two islands are not far apart. Once on the island, we walked to the Pods where we were staying. There are very few cars on this island so everyone walks. Since it was 10am-ish, we asked to leave our suitcases and return between 3-7:00 to check in. Will was agreeable to that and even put them in our pod once it was ready.

Another Scone??

We meandered back into town, stopping on the way in a gift/book shop where the volunteer told us we could find a prayer labyrinth. It was at the southern tip of the island on Saint Columba’s Bay. St. Columba came from Ireland (St. Patrick was his spiritual father) to bring Christianity to the Picts, a tribe from the area we now know as Scotland. He probably landed on that bay as it is the closest to Ireland.

We then took a quick visit to Iona Parish Church in the Church of Scotland (Presbyterian.) It is still in use and looks 1960ish on the inside so I didn’t even take a picture. Gregg did.

We were thirsty and couldn’t decide whether we wanted to take time to eat. The day was gorgeous and what we both really wanted to do was be outdoors. So we stopped in a Spar (a mini-mart) for a sparkling water and a diet Coke. Since we were skipping lunch and because they had freshly made baked goods, we bought another Scone to share. Please don’t judge. We’re on vacation. :)

Do you think THIS is the path?

The kind lady told us to go down the road until the pavement ends and there is a gate. Go through the gate and “follow the path” straight towards to water. Then it will turn left. Walk until you get to the beach at the end. It’s pretty obvious.

Clearly, this sweet lady hadn’t walked the path recently, as it was not overly clear in places. But we kept walking south, through fields (watch out for the various scat,) up hills, down hills, navigating mud and water on the trail, and past/through a bespoke golf course. The golf holes were so crazy unexpected.

Part of the journey we walked with a couple from Switzerland. We decided that if we were going to be lost, at least the scenery was gorgeous! And there were no trees, so it wasn’t like we were disoriented in a forest.

Labyrinth

We finally arrived! The labyrinth was made with rocks. We both picked up a small rock and walked through the labyrinth, praying. I imagined my rock symbolizing some concerns and decisions I’ve been carrying. As I walked, I talked to God about them. When I got to the center, I dropped the rock, leaving it with God. I then walked the labyrinth back out, asking God to help me be present, especially during this trip.

Rocky Beach

This beach was full of smooth, colorful rocks. So pretty! As often does when we travel, the water called to us, beckoning us to let it feel our toes. Gregg gave in first. Ugh…I remember doing this in Greece. Thought it was almost 25 years ago, I still remember how it felt. But, how could I NOT join him?

I took my shoes off closer to the shore than Gregg. But it still HURT. Once in the water, the icy water helped numb the feet against the pain of the rocks. After multiple photos, when we couldn’t stand it any longer, we hobbled back to our shoes, then headed back to check into our pod.

From town, our little pilgrimage was around 5 miles round trip and it took us 3.5 hours. Our hearts were joyful. Our toes? That’s another story. I had 10 little piggies screaming wee-wee-wee want out of these shoes NOW!!! And DON’T put us back! They have a right to complain. We walked a total of 13ish miles today.

Home Sweet Home for 2 Nights

Here’s our pod. Number 2. It is quite nice! There are 4 pods with bathrooms in them. We weren’t so fortunate to get one. But that’s fine. We knew this was a big possibility.

What’s for Supper?

After a short break in the pod, the rumblies in our tumblies over-rode the piggies and we set out to find dinner. We ended up at the Columba Inn just as their dinner service was beginning. We knew it would be expensive but had heard that their food was excellent. And we’ve walked past their lovely organic gardens several times. So we went in.

Since we didn’t have a reservation and their tables were full, they let us eaCan we t in what they called the “bar,” which was a small room. It had a window where we could see out to the water and we were the only ones in that room. The food was delicious. I especially loved the Goat Cheese Salad with beets! Gregg had a pulled lamb slider and we shared a Greek stew.

Time for a Cuppa

When we left the Inn restaurant, Gregg went into town to see if Spar was open and I walked back to our pods. My feet refused to walk in negative direction with Gregg. Back at the pod, I put on the kettle and made a cup of tea. It hit the spot!

Agapeo at the Abbey

The old Abbey has morning and evening prayers each day, typically at 9:00 am and 9:00 pm. As we neared the Abbey, the church bells were ringing. Come to find out, the service was an Agapeo rather than evening prayers. Services are led by volunteers from the Iona Community.

We sang some songs, listened to several stories, shared stories with each other by answering a prompt question, and then ate an “Agape Meal” together of water and a GF cookie. The atmosphere was special, the main section where everyone sat was lit with candles. There were other lights on elsewhere so it wasn’t too dark.

We plan to return tomorrow night. We aren’t sure about tomorrow morning because we plan to go to a Eucharist service at a Scottish Episcopal Church.

As we left the Abbey, the sky was dark and we could see lots of stars! And the Milky Way! I got a cool picture of the church cross with the Big Dipper over it.

Did I mention that our Pod doesn’t have a bathroom? We have to walk across the yard to a community bathroom/shower. The facilities are very nice and clean. I’ve been telling myself that an advantage of this is, if (OK, WHEN) I need to run to the little gir’s room in the middle of the night, I can look at the stars. And I’m secretly hoping to see the Northern Lights.

Here’s to going to bed before it is tomorrow! zzzz